In Bali, the search for authentic Nasi Campur—or Balinese mixed rice—is a pursuit of flavours and heritage. Among the many humble eateries dotting the island, Warung Teges in Ubud stands as a time-honoured institution, blending local tradition with an unassuming charm.

Our innkeeper, a local expert on all things Ubud, called it a “must-visit,” and so, one morning, we set out to find this legendary warung nestled in Peliatan Village, a community celebrated for its exquisite stone carvings. The journey, winding through lanes flanked by Balinese artistry, felt as much a cultural pilgrimage as it did a culinary one.

From the street, Warung Teges might appear modest—its compact facade a quiet prelude to the bustle within. Stepping inside, however, reveals a welcoming courtyard where diners can choose between simple dining tables and the more traditional lesehan seating, where meals are enjoyed on low platforms.

Established in the 1970s, this family-run eatery serves only Nasi Campur, but with three thoughtful variations: vegetarian, chicken, and pork. Despite its simplicity, the warung draws an eclectic crowd. Tourists mix with local patrons, many dressed in elegant Balinese ceremonial attire, as they savour hearty plates while sharing stories and laughter.

At Warung Teges, every plate is a tableau of culinary tradition. The Nasi Campur with pork, for instance, is an aromatic composition of white rice, shredded chicken, tender chunks of grilled pork, pork sausage, vegetable lawar, boiled pindang egg, crispy chicken skin, and a skewer of satay lilit. Everything is arranged atop a banana leaf-lined plate, crowned with a drizzle of rich chicken broth and a dollop of fiery sambal matah.

The flavours are as layered as the island itself. The chicken broth is deeply savoury, elevating the dish with its comforting warmth. The grilled pork offers a satisfying smokiness, though its texture leans toward the firm side. Meanwhile, the pork sausage provides a delightful contrast—its crispy casing yielding to a tender, spiced interior.

For those who opt for the chicken Nasi Campur, the ensemble is equally captivating. Here, the rice is accompanied by turmeric-seasoned fried chicken, tender chicken innards, vegetable lawar, pindang egg, and satay lilit. The chicken, richly seasoned, delivers a robust flavour, although its texture skews tougher than expected. The pindang egg, however, is a triumph—its sweet and savoury notes paired with a soft, molten yolk that melts with each bite.

The undisputed star of the plate, though, is the sambal matah. Its raw, zesty heat ignites the palate, harmonising with the rich, savoury elements of the dish. The chilli’s fiery edge is not for the faint-hearted, but it’s precisely this intensity that underscores the dish’s authenticity.

With prices at IDR 30,000 per plate, a meal at Warung Teges is both affordable and satisfying, offering a taste of Balinese culinary heritage without pretense. For the best experience, it’s wise to arrive early in the morning, when the dishes are freshly prepared and the courtyard hums with the quiet energy of a new day.

At Warung Teges, a meal is more than sustenance—it’s a window into the heart of Balinese culture. From the carefully arranged plates to the communal atmosphere of the courtyard, this modest warung offers not just food, but a deeply rooted sense of place.